Le Petit Nice

3 stars

To eat the Sea

On a beautiful summer evening, in the ocean mist, you are tasting the exploding freshness of the sea. On the plate is the quintessence of Mediterranean fish. When night falls on this fragment of eternity hanging on a piece of rock, you are looking at the horizon. The sea, with spices and colors of a blue darkness, with the briny air, the smell. Here, the caressing wind creates the acidity. You’ll be approaching a brutalist taste, a sensation with textures of architecture. Who knows how to eat, knows to eat the sea with all its characteristics. Gérald Passedat created a landscape between fluidity and density, instinct and sophistication, with an ancient gesture adorned with his ultramodern technique.

Anemone Fritters
The much-neglected sea anemone used to be eaten simply by fishermen all around the Mediterranean Sea. Now to find them you just have to free-dive three or four meters down… Forget about its sting: vinegar will stop the pain. Anemones have a wealth of flavors and textures. Fried in a melt-in-the-mouth fritter – a whiff of sea ! – or cooked in a creamy mousse, garnished with a bit of greens like water cress, aragula or lettuce ; some shellfish and a dash of Ossetia caviar. A milk foam. In front of you: the sea in all its simplicity.

Lucie Passedat Sea Bass
Its flesh is delicate and firm. It melts in the mouth. Here it is prepared with the flavors of the Marseille’s back-country. This was the first dish Gérald Passedat created, and is a tasty tribute to his grandmother, as this was her favorite fish. A slice of steamed sea bass, colorful zucchini and cucumber ribbons, a medley of light and dark greens laid on an intensely flavorful “base”. Red and green tomatoes, lemon, basil, coriander, wild fennel, olive oil and a touch of truffle – as a reminder of his family’s roots in the Quercy region – form a tender bed for this thick fish steak, cooked to bring out the creaminess of its flesh. It is so tender that you’ll eat it with a spoon, which brings out all the different flavors from land and sea.

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