Le Grand Véfour

2 stars

Self-made man, idol who never sleep, arts and letters connoisseur, extreme skier, even the most supreme superlatives are of no help when it’s about Guy Martin. He is the little prince of the ranges, the beautiful kid of cuisine, a serene poet, a philosopher. At the head of a place of legends, Le Grand Véfour, he is in the depth of classical french cooking and futuristic practices. An elusive character.

It is always a great emotion to have dinner in the Grand Véfour, a restaurant unique in the world because it is the place where the concept of restaurant was invented. We could use the motto: “Véfour one day, Véfour forever”. In this old Paris of passages as Walter BENJAMIN wrote in 1939, there is so much history: “These passages, a new invention of industrial luxury, are galleries covered with glass, paneled with marble, which traverse whole blocks of buildings where owners have regrouped. On either side of these galleries, which receive the day from above, are lined up the most elegant shops, so that such a passage is a city, a world in miniature”.

In the Véfour where Marcel Proust, François-René de Chateaubriand or Colette have dined, a rendezvous with the geniuses of the place and the culinary art of master Guy Martin.

Foie gras raviolis, truffles emulsion cream Carnal sensuality of drunkenness in the Japanese texture of Gyoza with foie gras, truffles and cream.

Truffles parmentier of shredded oxtail During his childhood, Guy Martin abhorred this dish. He now wants to ennoble this gratin, in rebellion against the school. A slow cooking of potatoes, in aluminum foil and coarse salt, a tremendous work on the oxtails, on the truffle and its juice.

Pigeon Prince Rainier III In 1991, when Guy Martin arrived in Paris, he wanted to rehabilitate the classic dishes of Raymond Oliver, chef and owner of Le Grand Véfour for 37 years. This recipe, sculpted by the history of Principality of Monaco, is like a mirage: "boning a beautiful pigeon with a beautiful provenance, stuffing it with a truffle as big as a fist and with foie gras, reconstructing it and then cooking it gently in casserole".

Le Grand Véfour
17, rue de Beaujolais
75001 Paris

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